Best epoxy to reseal lures

[Oldskoolfool]

Pitsters

What brand of epoxy do you recommend to reseal a couple of well worn lures?

I have looked at a few and surprisingly some are not recommended for outside use.

[Mike J]

Pitsters

What brand of epoxy do you recommend to reseal a couple of well worn lures?

I have looked at a few and surprisingly some are not recommended for outside use.

Ive used Araldite with excellent results, I still using some hollow plastic Cisco Kids that I fully coated in the early '80's that no pike has ever punctured.

Also tried Gudebrod rod finish but it did cut up a bit.


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[Steve Dennington]

Avoid all 5 minute epoxies - they yellow quickly when exposed to daylight and are not waterproof, only water-resistant.

There are various 24hr resins, but I doubt that they'll suit your needs because they need either a rotisserie style turner for a smooth coat or a lot of coats using the hang'n'drip method. Availability is an issue too. I use Trueglide's Truecoat. but it has to be ordered from the States and shipping/taxes make it eye-wateringly expensive.

The one I'd recommend is BSI 30 minute (link below). Many lure makers use BSI for all of their lures and it does a decent job without all the faff of 24hr resins. Your working time is around 8-10minutes, so you'll have time to coat 2-3 lures if you're quick at applying. Apply with a brush, suspend your lure somehow and allow the excess to drip off. Ideally at this stage, hit the lure with a fast moving flame to get rid of bubbles (chef's torch is ideal). Just a quick pass is all that's required - keep the flame moving at all times. Alternatively, you can blow on it with a straw - the CO2 in your breath will pop the bubbles. Your finish will look good and resist damage from teeth really well.

A few more things. Firstly, you'll want temperature of at least 20C for effective curing of epoxies. If you do it in a cold garage you'll most likely end up with a lure that's tacky to the touch. Also, avoid inhaling the fumes as much as possible and wear disposable gloves to avoid skin contact. A lot of 24hr epoxies are not as much of a health hazard as they used to be (mind you, none are exactly good for you!) but BSI is pretty fumey. Lastly, you can clean your brush with isopropyl alcohol. If you haven't got any of that, you'll have little choice but to bin your brush after applying. Nothing else I've used will clean epoxy off properly, even things like acetone.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bob-Smith-Indu ... FFFS4?th=1

[Mike J]

Steve,
Ive used GRP epoxy when boat building as a glue for wood to wood and stainless steel to wood and grp laminate and as a wood waterproofer. Do you think it would be suitable for tooth proofing lures?

Your tip of keep of keeping the flame moving I discovered by accident when I didn't and quickly turned a Hi-Low into a bent lure.


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[Steve Dennington]

Steve,
Ive used GRP epoxy when boat building as a glue for wood to wood and stainless steel to wood and grp laminate and as a wood waterproofer. Do you think it would be suitable for tooth proofing lures?

Your tip of keep of keeping the flame moving I discovered by accident when I didn't and quickly turned a Hi-Low into a bent lure.


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I'm not familiar with it, but you can always test it on a scrap piece of wood to avoid wrecking a lure if it turns out to be unsuitable.

One big advantage of modern epoxies like Truecoat is that they tend to have excellent resistance to yellowing and many are around Shore 80D to retain some flexibility. That helps to avoid chipping, which Envirotex was very prone to.

[Mark Phillips]

I've tried quite a few in my time, but always kept coming back to Envirotex (for lures). Just ensure you mix exactly 50:50, thoroughly mix it and then allow to cure over a few days at room temperature. Used it for 25 years, does the job, doesn't go yellow and stays clear. It's also very durable - if you have done the application properly it's rock hard. I've coated stacks of lures with it, as have many I know. Default choice IMO.

Don't use Araldite! Good grief.

[Steve Dennington]

I've tried quite a few in my time, but always kept coming back to Envirotex (for lures). Just ensure you mix exactly 50:50, thoroughly mix it and then allow to cure over a few days at room temperature. Used it for 25 years, does the job, doesn't go yellow and stays clear. It's also very durable - if you have done the application properly it's rock hard. I've coated stacks of lures with it, as have many I know. Default choice IMO.

Don't use Araldite! Good grief.

E'tex is still an okay choice, but there are better options these days. I have a fair few E'texed lures that have discoloured over time, but it's generally the white bellies where it shows the most. The video here shows the yellowing vs. other resins and E'tex doesn't fare very well.

[Jack H]

Not re sealing lures, but I assume 5 minute epoxy is ok for sealing holes and adding lead? I’ve got a burt that needs some weight adding and a couple of holes around the hook hangers, is just standard gorilla 5 minute epoxy ok?

Jack

[Steve Dennington]

Not re sealing lures, but I assume 5 minute epoxy is ok for sealing holes and adding lead? I’ve got a burt that needs some weight adding and a couple of holes around the hook hangers, is just standard gorilla 5 minute epoxy ok?

Jack

It will work, but possibly not permanently. As with most 5min epoxies, Gorilla Epoxy is only water resistant and recommended for indoor/outdoor use but not full submersion.

[DaveGreenwood]

Pitsters

What brand of epoxy do you recommend to reseal a couple of well worn lures?

I have looked at a few and surprisingly some are not recommended for outside use.

Problem you`ve got is you wont need a large amount for a few lures, avoid the quick cure ones as already said but wouldn't worry about a bit of yellowing no Pike is going to refuse to take a lure because its gone a bit yellow, I can recommend Alumilite Iv been using it for 3 years now without any issues whatsoever and know someone that used it for 5 years without issue before me, after using more than 2 gallons Im impressed it does not yellow either if you are extra picky.
Smallest one 235ml is £10 + post

https://houseofresin.co.uk/alumilite-am ... oxy-resin/

[Jack H]

Not re sealing lures, but I assume 5 minute epoxy is ok for sealing holes and adding lead? I’ve got a burt that needs some weight adding and a couple of holes around the hook hangers, is just standard gorilla 5 minute epoxy ok?

Jack

It will work, but possibly not permanently. As with most 5min epoxies, Gorilla Epoxy is only water resistant and recommended for indoor/outdoor use but not full submersion.

Thanks Steve

[Oldskoolfool]

Thanks guys

I already have experience of epoxy yellowi g on pike flies so won't be going there - it works fine just looks awful after a while.

Richard

[Will Smith]

Great thread this very informative, I am going to ear mark it for future reference, thank you guys for your input.

Will.

[Steve Dennington]

Problem you`ve got is you wont need a large amount for a few lures, avoid the quick cure ones as already said but wouldn't worry about a bit of yellowing no Pike is going to refuse to take a lure because its gone a bit yellow, I can recommend Alumilite Iv been using it for 3 years now without any issues whatsoever and know someone that used it for 5 years without issue before me, after using more than 2 gallons Im impressed it does not yellow either if you are extra picky.
Smallest one 235ml is £10 + post

https://houseofresin.co.uk/alumilite-am ... oxy-resin/

That's Shore 80D, same as Truecoat, so it's not going to chip. It looks a good option. It's also less than half the price of Truecoat, which is over £200 a gallon when you factor in shipping and taxes. I've got 1 and a bit quart kits of Truecoat left and when that's gone I might have to give the Alumilite a go.

[Mark Phillips]

I've tried quite a few in my time, but always kept coming back to Envirotex (for lures). Just ensure you mix exactly 50:50, thoroughly mix it and then allow to cure over a few days at room temperature. Used it for 25 years, does the job, doesn't go yellow and stays clear. It's also very durable - if you have done the application properly it's rock hard. I've coated stacks of lures with it, as have many I know. Default choice IMO.

Don't use Araldite! Good grief.

E'tex is still an okay choice, but there are better options these days. I have a fair few E'texed lures that have discoloured over time, but it's generally the white bellies where it shows the most. The video here shows the yellowing vs. other resins and E'tex doesn't fare very well.

I worked for Sika for a while, so know a thing or two about epoxy Yes, there are better alternatives, but most of those are available to non commercial buyers. Envirotex is easy to use, readily available, cheap and just works. I've genuinely not experienced any yellowing using it, but then I don't apply it like treacle and mix it properly. You'll get similar issues with others if you don't achieve a homogeneous mixture - have had the same conversation with a number of flooring 'experts' and it's always user error when you're dealing with epoxy issues. Also worth noting the thicker or deeper the layer, the more the propensity for refraction, which can affect the clarity if a clear coat is what trying to achieve. Cheers.

[Steve Dennington]

I worked for Sika for a while, so know a thing or two about epoxy There are better alternatives, but Envirotex is easy to use, cheap and just works. I've not experienced any yellowing and that's because I've mixed and applied it properly You'll get similar issues with others if you don't blend them properly.

Agreed. Too much hardener and it'll yellow more readily. The hardener element of all of them yellows with time on its own.

[Mark Phillips]

I worked for Sika for a while, so know a thing or two about epoxy There are better alternatives, but Envirotex is easy to use, cheap and just works. I've not experienced any yellowing and that's because I've mixed and applied it properly You'll get similar issues with others if you don't blend them properly.

Agreed. Too much hardener and it'll yellow more readily. The hardener element of all of them yellows with time on its own.

Thanks Steve. You'd replied before I'd finished amending my post Yep and you're right about the yellow on white thing.

[Steve Dennington]

Thanks Steve. You'd replied before I'd finished amending my post Yep and you're right about the yellow on white thing.

As you rightly say, if you're applying 1-2 coats you can get away with yellowing. It just won't be noticeable over most colours.

A lot of the lures I make (example attached) have a lot of coats (often 8 or more on top of the base coat) to provide physical depth in the finish, so any yellowing would be magnified. The best performer in the UV test is Art Resin and I do use that, but it's 78D and not robust enough as a topcoat for toothy fish. The multiple layers are easily enough to resist tooth penetration, but it just scratches up too easily. There's nothing wrong with a beaten up lure, but you don't want a nice looking finish scuffed to hell too quickly.