The Pikers Pit

Trying to find how to do it but finding nothing on google.

Btw. can you still reverse

Ask Carl, Sure that's what his Kayak conversion will do

viewtopic.php?f=90&t=27647#p401376



Andy

Cyprio wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 16:47 -

Ask Carl, Sure that's what his Kayak conversion will do

viewtopic.php?f=90&t=27647#p401376



Andy

Andy,

You could use something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172632490773?c ... 426&crdt=0

You will need to work out what the max current draw of your motor is and go for a controller around 25% greater.

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 21:13 -

Andy,

You could use something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172632490773?c ... 426&crdt=0

You will need to work out what the max current draw of your motor is and go for a controller around 25% greater.

just started seeing these after broadening search terms im wondering though, with these it looks like you need to have the outboard set full speed using its own speed switch in the handle, like an on/off, then using that device to control it ?

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 22:02 -

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 21:13 -

Andy,

You could use something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172632490773?c ... 426&crdt=0

You will need to work out what the max current draw of your motor is and go for a controller around 25% greater.

just started seeing these after broadening search terms im wondering though, with these it looks like you need to have the outboard set full speed using its own speed switch in the handle, like an on/off, then using that device to control it ?

I would bypass the outboard speed control completely and just use the variable.

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17 2017 06:52 -

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 22:02 -

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 21:13 -

Andy,

You could use something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172632490773?c ... 426&crdt=0

You will need to work out what the max current draw of your motor is and go for a controller around 25% greater.

just started seeing these after broadening search terms im wondering though, with these it looks like you need to have the outboard set full speed using its own speed switch in the handle, like an on/off, then using that device to control it ?

I would bypass the outboard speed control completely and just use the variable.

Will need to figure that out. The origonal speed switches are forever breaking at £33 a pop. New infinite speed circuitboard in the head and a little pot right on end of the handle. Well thats the idea for now two way pot for reverse instead of a switch would be ideal for my idea instead of a seperate box.

Doesnt look like much in the way of Bi-directional pots

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17 2017 09:39 -

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17 2017 06:52 -

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 22:02 -

Duncan Holmes wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16 2017 21:13 -

Andy,

You could use something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/172632490773?c ... 426&crdt=0

You will need to work out what the max current draw of your motor is and go for a controller around 25% greater.

just started seeing these after broadening search terms im wondering though, with these it looks like you need to have the outboard set full speed using its own speed switch in the handle, like an on/off, then using that device to control it ?

I would bypass the outboard speed control completely and just use the variable.

Will need to figure that out. The origonal speed switches are forever breaking at £33 a pop. New infinite speed circuitboard in the head and a little pot right on end of the handle. Well thats the idea for now two way pot for reverse instead of a switch would be ideal for my idea instead of a seperate box.

Minn kota, manage to do it on the pot but their boards are a bit more than the ebay special.

https://northlandmarine.com/collections ... ly-2184026

Yup. Bit pricey but thats what id be after

Are these the same units you had issues with battery connections?

Yep. Still happens from time to time reckon that was just the shity clamps and corrosion on wire and clamp. They go ok for a while after cleaning up the contacts and crimping them on again..... till they tarnish.

Theres a few with broken switches i could diy. the price of the switches keep going up and are not far off £40. Customers can be a bit heavy handed.

A 30p pot is a whole lot better to replace than a 38 quid switch

Could be they are flicking on/off a lot, a variable would help with that.

Sounds a lot for a rotary switch, are you buying as oem part or generic?

Shakespear ones i think he gets. Can get generic but seems all mostly from states and china. After shipping would be just about same if not more.

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17 2017 20:15 -

Shakespear ones i think he gets. Can get generic but seems all mostly from states and china. After shipping would be just about same if not more.

The shakespear one looks like a standard 6 terminal rotary switch in a housing, have you tried taking the switch apart and seeing what's inside? You maybe able to source the switch unit separately a lot cheaper.

Ill have a deeper look in to it but doesnt appeal to my tinkering nature

Think I have a spare board off a variable speed minn Kota
Remind later to have a look

Andrew Croft wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17 2017 22:11 -

Ill have a deeper look in to it but doesnt appeal to my tinkering nature

If you chuck one on the post to me, I will take a look and see if they are possible to repair.

Google PWN speed controller circuits and brush up on the theory.
Basically a couple of heavy duty transistors that switch on/off pretty rapid.
Frequency controls speed rather than voltage.
Might allso wanna get a can of servisol super 10 for cleaning them switches.
PS cheapo 12/24v chink scooter controllers are prob up to the job.